Among the major alcohol categories hard cider can often be overlooked. This is a mistake as the beverage, an agricultural achievement, has deep roots in America and continues to surprise and delight regular consumers. Michelle McGrath the executive director of the American Cider Association spoke with Beer Edge editor John Holl about all that is new and happening with cider.
John Holl: What’s the state of the cider industry these days? Where do you see growth?
Michelle McGrath: The cider industry has been successful in persevering, we’ve managed to hold on to our share and did a survey for first time this year for cider makers who are harvest driven, those that make it one once a year in season press, and we saw tremendous growth in that segment.
The pandemic in a roundabout way did support strong retail presence, and we saw strong online sales as well. It has slowed recently but the industry is maintaining. In fact we are seeing a lot of sustainable growth because in 2015 and 2016 were the fasting growing segment and now we’re maintaining sustainable growth.
Right now, the industry is split [by share] of half national brands and half regional brands and overall sales are growing. If the regionals can maintain growth, we’re going to see an overall increase of cider share.
We are also starting to see mergers and acquisitions come to the cider space and I expect to see more.
John Holl: Are consumers looking for varieties and new flavors? If so, what are some apple varieties or processes that cider makers are using to deliver on that interest?
Michelle McGrath: Apples aren’t really on the radar of consumers, so it’s not about new apples. Cider makers are trying to build an apple hype machine and it’s pretty amazing to see a cidery come out with an apple driven cider and doing it with varieties that are household names. That’s the gateway. We’re seeing honey crisp cider, or others like cosmic crisp.
We’re also seeing a lot more single varietal ciders and people being willing to play with apples leading to an awareness of apples by consumers.
There is a general sense that phase 2.0 of the modern cider revolution is going to be a realization that it doesn’t need to be a bitter sharp or bitter sweet apple as the base. There are some great American apples that are not very tannic but have a lot of complexity.
John Holl: Are there any challenges for hard cider on the horizon?
Michelle McGrath: The biggest challenge right now is trying to help consumers understand that apples are expensive and that is why cider costs more than beer. Cideries are facing the same challenges that any business is facing with inflation and freight costs and local orchards also have to contend with disease and climate change. We are seeing those impacts on the orchards and to throw a pandemic on top of that, it only gets harder.
John Holl: Are there other flavors coming into the cider space? If so, what are they and how are cider makers embracing it?
Michelle McGrath: Co-ferments are hot right now. We’re seeing a lot of wineries get on board and they are doing grape and apple co-ferments, or pear and grape co-ferments. They are using grape skins or juice and the flavors play well together.
Also, whatever flavor is hot in general continues to be a strong performer. Hop ciders don’t show up as much anymore and have been on a decline for a while. There are some botanical ciders that are exciting as well.
This interview has been condensed and edited for clarity.