New to force carbing, regulator trouble

[larsmudrak]

Hi,
We are currently kegging in corny kegs and had been naturally carbonating for about a year. Now because of increased demand, and inconsistent results from natural carbonation, I have started to try force carbonating. I was chilling kegs to about 40*F in our walk-in cooler and hooking them up to about 12 psi, and turning the keg on its side (with the gas valve up) This was working great, but then my Regulator stopped working. I got a new regulator, and this one quit working as well. Should I not have the tank and reg at the cold temperatures? Am I just unlucky with faulty regs? Is it possible that beer is getting the gas line and into the regulator? Has anyone had much experience with these http://www.midwestsupplies.com/carbonating-lid-2-5-3-gallon-ball-lock-keg-0-5-micron-stone.html Thanks for the advice!

[Rosie]

Most likely you are getting beer in your regulators...check this thread:

http://www.probrewer.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=10102

Cheers,
Jeff

[Ted Briggs]

Can you carb in a tank before kegging?- youll get better results.

[larsmudrak]

That's not a possibility for us right now. We are racking into kegs, then we carb...

[hophead82]

do you have a check valve before your regulator?

[larsmudrak]

I don't have a check valve, but I'm starting to think that getting one might be a good idea.... Do they actually prevent beer from getting into the regulator, or do they just allow you to see inside the line? Does anyone know where to get them inside the sates?

[hophead82]

McMaster Carr has just about everything

http://www.mcmaster.com/#check-valves/=9jb4dk

[BrewinLou]

Check valves prevents back flow. You should use clear hose to "see" inside the lines. That would help you determine if you are blowing beer into your regulator. Or at this point you could just unscrew one of the fouled regulators and see if that is the issue. If it is, you most likely can clean and lube the diaphragm and it will work again.

[planbbrewing]

I am also carbonating in corny kegs. Rather than putting a single check valve at the regulator, I use check valves at each disconnect. Without them I found that I was always getting beer in the lines. Foxx equipment has the check valve you need, item number is 04C03-229 (sorry no link to it). I have found that they do fail after a while so be sure to a check valve at the regulator as well.

Are you connecting CO2 to the in or the out? We found it works a little better by doing it to the out, then we don't have to lay kegs down or anything like that.

Will be great when I no longer have to carbonate in corny kegs.

Mark

[larsmudrak]

Thanks for the advice Mark. I'll def be getting some check valves soon. Do you have any experience with those carbonating lids like I linked in the original post?

[larsmudrak]

Sorry Mark, another question... I just looked at the part you recommended. Is that the only part I need, do I need any other adapters. Do I just hook the check valve into my co2 line (on the right side) and then the left part just attaches to my regular disconnect? Sorry to nit pick about details, I just want to be sure I get what I need. Thanks a lot!

[planbbrewing]

As long as your disconnects are the threaded ones, no adapter is needed. If you have barbed disconnects I would recommend switching for threaded ones.

No experience with those lids. We just put the beer into the corny kegs and then into a cooler and connect CO2. It does take about 5 days to carbonate at 20psi but we are ok with that. If you want quicker times, don't fill your keg as much.

Mark

[brewman21]

The problem wth check valves, is their meant to be used for gases and
not liquids. I have found that over time they get gummed up, and stop fully
sealing sooner or later. It's something we just have to live with!!! Cheers!!