Red Hat Solenoid valve problems. Why won't you close damnit!

[MatthewS]

Now that our chiller is running better, we seem to have found another problem.

Our Red hat are sticking open when they should be closed. ;o(

Here are some specs on what we are doing.
The pressures are fairly typical on the jackets:
each tank seems to be a little different...
we have 6 fv, 2 bbt, and 1 CLT.
the pressures in the jackets range from 11 to 13 on the fv
the pressures are about 16 psi on the bbt
Cold Liquor tank is about 11

We understand these valves need at least a 5 pound differential to operate properly.
Supply is at 18; Return is at 12

Also. The all magnetize and demagnitize properly when engaged and disengaged.

HELP!?!?!?!?
Why are these sticking open. All have been taken apart and inspected and reassembled. TWO are completely brand new. 6 are 1 year old.

If there is more info needed too help me with this, please ask.
Thanks
Matthew

[CBC]

Just a thought. Check your supply voltage when they are energized. If you dip under 90vac you may have a problem there.
Cheers

[lhall]

Matthew,

We had the same problem. Ended up replacing all of the 5 psi differential ones with ones that had 0 psi differential. Have not had any problems since. It was expensive but haven't had any problems since. The 5 psi differential ones just would not close reliably.

[gitchegumee]

Hey Matt! ASCO valves are great, but you must keep the liquid absolutely clean! That means a mandatory glycol strainer out of the chiller before the distribution header. Your DME system probably came with "pilot operated" valves which have a small orifice in them. These require a small pressure differential to open them, but I'm sure you will have this at your supply. As I recall, you have copper glycol piping, but it is very common for cheap startups to use PVC and nix the strainer because they can't afford to do it right. Soon after startup, they find that they have uncontrolled temperature swings and aren't making the "craft" beer they thought they could. Carefully clean the solenoids by opening them up and inspecting the orifice that opens them. Learn how the pilot makes them operate so you will realize importance of a fine strainer on your system. At least you've got isolation valves on each side of these! Another area where cheap startups can't seem to get it right. Good luck and let me know if this doesn't fix the problem. I'm betting it does.

[jimvgjr]

We've got a new line of actuated ball valves we are testing, for a 3/4" valve with 120 Volt coil the price is around $250.00. I believe these have brass body (not plastic) with a Nema 4X coil (washdown rated). Could I send you a sample to test, I'd love to get some input from you on what you think?

Let me know the coil voltage and I'll ship one out to you. I think we have two available for some field tests.

Hope to have these at the CBC (if testing continues to go as planned).

Thanks,

Jim

[beertje46]

Could I send you a sample to test, I'd love to get some input from you on what you think?

Thanks,

Jim
Yes please. You have my address.:D

[jimvgjr]

Yes please. You have my address.:D


You got it David, 120 Volt?

[beertje46]

You got it David, 120 Volt?
120, 121 whatever it takes.

[zachjenny]

Has anyone used the motorized ball valves from GWkent? $50.00 seems pretty cheap if they can be used in conjunction with a standard temp. controller.

Heres a link:

http://breweryparts.com/category.asp?category_id=102&market_id=2

Zach